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It's not easy stocking a beauty cabinet with skin care for sensitive skin. A list of what ingredients to avoid often ends up sounding exactly like the most popular launches of the year—hyped by everyone, but usually off-limits to you. For those who experience irritation and redness easily, actives that work wonders for most tend to trigger flare-ups. While one option is experimenting with concentration levels and frequency of usage, there's also a far easier workaround.
Thanks to new-generation ingredients that boost collagen like retinol and sweep away dead cells like alpha hydroxy acids, skin care for sensitive skin is seriously leveling up. Just ask the experts: We polled trusted dermatologists, and all of them submitted alternate ingredients that deliver noticeable results—without the risk of a reaction. Read on for nine ingredients (and product picks) to add to your routine immediately.
Retinol
Why you should swap it out: The gold standard of skin care actives helps curb acne, boost collagen production, and even out skin tone. But retinol is also notorious for triggering redness and peeling. It can be especially harsh on people with sensitive skin.
What you should swap it with: Bakuchiol. This retinol alternative activates the same receptors in your skin, without the residual redness or irritation, according to Melanie Palm, M.D., a San Diego dermatologist and dermatologic cosmetic surgeon.
How to use bakuchiol: Both retinol and bakuchiol do their best work while cells are in a nocturnal repair mode, so reach for your bakuchiol night cream, serum, or treatment before lights out.
What to try: Bakuchiol is the hero ingredient in this overnight mask geared toward sensitive skin. Supporting cast members include cucumber fruit water, squalane, and jojoba oil for added hydration and bounce.
Salicylic acid
Why you should swap it out: New York dermatologic surgeon, Dendy Engelman, M.D., calls this ingredient “acne’s biggest enemy” for its ability to target blackheads and whiteheads, dissolve pore-clogging gunk, and take the redness out of pimples. But for those with sensitive skin, it can cause dryness and irritation.
What you should swap it with: Witch hazel. “Witch Hazel is a naturally effective herbal extract with exceptional cleansing, soothing, and healing properties,” says Engelman. Like salicylic acid, it unclogs pores by removing excess oil and reducing acne-causing bacteria.
How to use witch hazel: Since it may not pack as much as a punch as salicylic acid, Engelman suggests using witch hazel twice a day to keep pores clean.
What to try: This toner pairs the pore-clearing powers of witch hazel with soothing rosewater, aloe, and jojoba seed extract. It's also packaged in a spray bottle for easy application—no single-use cotton rounds required.
Coconut oil
Why you should swap it out: The popular moisturizer is loaded with fatty acids and antioxidants that help protect your complexion and hair, but for many skin types, it's actually not a great idea. “Coconut oil is considered a four on the zero-to-five comedogenicity scale, a list of pore-blocking ingredients graded from non-pore-blocking to incredibly pore-blocking,” says Engelman. This means unless you have severely dry skin and aren't prone to breakouts, it's better left off your face, otherwise it can make sensitive skin more inflamed.
What you should swap it with: Jojoba oil. Engelman says the oil alternative offers “maximum hydration," thanks to its ability to help retain moisture. “I prefer it as a replacement since it doesn't contain triglycerides and is helpful for people who are acne-prone,” she says.
How to use jojoba oil: Its structurally similar to our own sebum, which means most skin types will find it more compatible than other oils. Keep in mind, you still shouldn't apply too much. “I recommend using a couple drops at night before bed," says Engelman. "In the winter, apply it both in the morning and at night if you have dry skin."
What to try: CBD may be the flashy draw for this vitamin-packed, glow-boosting serum, but the workhorse behind it all? A jojoba oil base.
Hyaluronic acid
Why you should swap it out: You've definitely heard about hyaluronic acid (or "H.A.") before, along with the oft-cited fact that it holds 1,000 times its weight in water. It seems to be in just about everything lately, from lip balms to hair care to moisturizer. The ingredient itself isn’t a direct trigger for sensitive skin, but some derms caution that it can inadvertently contribute to irritation. “It allows increased penetration of other topical skin creams, and this increased absorption may lead to increased irritancy in sensitive skin types,” says Palm.
What you should swap it with: Squalane. Palm recommends this oil because it's a “powerful moisturizer that doesn’t attract water to your skin in the same area." In other words: It decreases the chance your skin will become irritated from skin care actives.” Another option: ceramide-3, a heavy-duty hydrator that helps repair and rebuild your skin's barrier function (i.e., your outermost layer of skin which holds in moisture).
How to use them: Apply ceramide-3 or squalane product as you would any other moisturizer—morning or night, after your treatment products (like a topical prescription medication or vitamin C serum).
What to try: We love this Biossance face oil, which uses renewable and sustainably grown squalane. If you're searching for ceramide-3 hydrators, Palm recommends these drugstore gems: anything from CeraVe and the Cetaphil Pro Restoraderm Eczema Soothing line.
Benzoyl peroxide
Why you should swap it out: Benzoyl peroxide. The proven acne-fighter quickly eradicates bacteria, but as dermatologist Kenneth Howe, M.D. notes, it's "not for everyone." Sensitive skin can become rough, dry, and slightly painful when exposed to it.
What you should swap it with: Azelaic acid. “I like azelaic acid as a replacement because it’s one of the most effective agents for treating acne in adult women—which is also the group who often has skin too sensitive to tolerate other acne meds,” Howe says. “In addition to combating acne, this acid also directly soothes inflammation.” Engelman provides another gentle alternative: “A PHA such as gluconolactone improves skin texture and tone, hydrates, and offers some antioxidant benefits,” she says. “It's gentler and better suited for people who have sensitive skin.”
How to use them: Apply a gluconolactone toner morning or night. Alternatively, you can incorporate an exfoliating moisturizer with azelaic acid as part of your nighttime routine.
What to try: The good news is that these alternate ingredients are easy to find. Then I Met You Birch Milk Refining Toner contains gluconolactone, along with squalane and birch milk to help keep skin hydrated and clear. Azelaic acid comes in prescription form; Howe recommends Finacea gel 15% for patients. If it's not covered by your insurance, you can also try affordable over-the-counter options like The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%. Paula's Choice also offers a gel cream that’s packed with azelaic acid and a bevy of antioxidants (and gets rave reviews from those with sensitive skin).
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Why you should swap it out: AHAs such as glycolic, lactic, and malic acids are staples when it comes to toning, brightening, and reducing the appearance of pores. But Palm warns that these acids can cause irritation in more reactive skin and increase sun sensitivity in all skin types.
What you should swap it with: Polyhydroxy acids. These mild acids don’t create the same sun sensitivity, and you'll still get similar results. “Polyhydroxy acids have larger molecules than AHAs, so they work only on the most superficial layer of skin,” says New York City dermatologist Robert Anolik, M.D. “They’re so gentle, they can even be used even by people with rosacea or eczema.”
How to use PHAs: Like classic AHAs, polyhydroxy acids can be swiped on in toner form or applied via a brightening treatment or mask.
What to try: This toner chemically exfoliates just like an extremely tingly AHA toner, but thanks to the PHA swap, it sweeps away dead cells with zero sensation. You'll still see plenty of brightening and smoothing, though.
Vitamin E
Why you should swap it out: The commonly used ingredient helps stop free radical oxidation and extend the shelf life of your product. But tocopherol (another name for the active) can also trigger contact dermatitis for a small percentage of people. Palm says this reaction will likely materialize as redness, rashes, irritation, itchiness, or a burning sensation.
What you should swap it with: Melatonin. The same stuff we rely on for sound sleep also acts as an indirect antioxidant in skin care. According to Palm, topically applied melatonin works by signaling enzymes that can trigger blocked or accelerated oxidation.
How to use melatonin: As you would with supplements, Palm suggests saving your topical melatonin for nighttime. “Especially when paired with a retinol alternative such as bakuchiol, melatonin enhances skin recovery, repair, and cell turnover,” she says.
What to try: This instant hit overnight mask, which sold out just 48 hours after launch, contains both bakuchiol and melatonin—plus hydrating squalane and soothing arnica.
Hydroquinone
Why you should swap it out: There's plenty of controversy surrounding the melanin blocker (it fades hyperpigmentation) due to animal testing that raises questions about possible carcinogenic links. While the FDA still considers hydroquinone safe, it can also cause irritation, redness, and dryness for some.
What you should swap it with: Tranexamic acid. "TA is a potent new agent for the treatment of melasma, but without the irritation or risk of hydroquinone,” says Howe. The scientific community still isn’t quite sure how TA minimizes dark spots, although Howe says it may work via “anti-palmin activity, which leads to decreased melanin synthesis.”
How to use tranexamic acid: Apply TA-infused serums and spot treatments morning or night.
What to try: This serum contains 3% TA and kojic acid to fade dark spots. “Kojic acid, a natural byproduct of fermented soy sauce and rice wine, blocks the formation of melanin production,” says Howe. For a more budget-friendly offering, we also like Inkey List Tranexamic Acid Hyperpigmentation Treatment, which contains 2% TA to even your skin tone.